Interior paint, insulation & lighting questions

The first water based paints were composed predominately with latex. They were called latex paints and were dreadful. Then came the latex-acrylic paints which were harder, and then the acrylic-latex paints which were harder still, and finally, as the costs of acrylic dropped, we have acrylic paints. The best automobile paints are "acrylic" and they perform better than anything else available. The latest paints are available to paint over just about anything. Wash off old oil paints with Trisodiumphosphate TSP (nasty old dishwashing detergent) to get rid of grease and etch the surface. They are all considered to be green because they do not require the toxic solvents.

Old paint will still settle out and the pigments clump which prevents the paint from covering as well - mix it well even if left overnight - but if you use old stock you may just have to apply more. Most paint manufacturers have copied each other's good products so there is really just personal preference to make a selection. Read the directions on the can.

Don't install pot lights - especially in upper floors that are covered with insulation. They melt the snow on the roof because you can't get enough insulation on top of them, and they dramatically reduce the light output. They concentrate the light to one area so if you do insist on putting them in, put in more and fit smaller bulbs. As energy costs rise there will probably be LED screw in alternatives, but more than likely the complete rewire for low power requirements for Light Emitting Diodes will be less costly than installing current fixures then modifying them. At some point you will probably want to sell your home. Energy efficiency may be more of a selling point than fancy lighting.

LEDs can't be too far away. Crude versions are already starting to show up for undercounter kitchen lighting, and a high power system was used to light up the front of the Bank of England.

Unless attic insulation has been water damaged don't waste what is already there. Old insulation had a paper backing that is actually the vapour barrier. Don't rip it out, just add to it.

Denim? If it's approved by building code it has a fire rating. Cellulose insulation (ground up newspaper- very environmental) is rendered fire resistant with the addition of Borax. Cellulose insulated houses take much longer to burn down than fiberglass insulated homes. The fiberglass justs melts into a blob.

Roxall insulation is made from slag and is fireproof. I mean, this stuff will stop the flame from a blow torch, and unlike fiberglass, if it gets wet and dries out it recovers its R value (it still works).

Best of luck with your reno - I hope you take the time to learn a bit more before you press the start button.