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I'm looking for idea's to make my home energy efficient
I've got some arcerage back in the hill of Arizona, there is no power and we will have to drill for water. Any help on this project would be great. I was thinking of putting piping in the slab and heating with hot liquid since we have 3 ten foot solar panels.

Our summers get up to 115 degrees on a regular basis, and the best thing I've done for our cooling costs was to plant tall shade bushes along the sunny side of the house. You get the shade to prevent super-heating the wall, and the slight evaporative cooling from additional vegetation.
Hard to find a more eco-friendly solution than more plants, too! ;)
southlandmechser, Since you live in warm climate, when you redo your roof check out underlayment with heavy duty foil on on one side. This treatment helps reflect suns rays back up to help lower attic temps. also put plenty of ventilation at peak and along soffitts. Makes big difference in cooling bill!
Also there is a new product available to reduce electric bill.It's called a whole house capacitor based optimizer. This product increases the efficiency of all your electric motors and corrects overvoltage.It is also a whole house surge protector. Good luck!
South,
Those heart pine floors can be a bear. I installed one approx. ten years ago. The wood was out of a warehouse in Missouri. All beat up, so it needed planing. I was taught a short course in on the spot planer blade sharpening and not by choice. Also, if you refinish the pine floor, get ready for some serious sanding and resin build up when you finish sand.
I too was once a New Englander. Danielson, CT. Back in the early eighties, I worked in Norwich.
Hey ctyankee,
Your friends wrong, I live near Columbia, SC. Three miles from Lake Murray. In farm country!!!
The $100k is a significant amount down here, especially for a renovation. It won't go far if I'm not careful though. My daughter just bought a new home, half this size, not far from here for $130k.
Good suggestion, I'll look into retaining an inspector.
Hi southlandmechse,
So my Kershaw County SC buddy thinks you live near the coast. Is he right? He's a big fan of woodstoves, and single malt scotch. Both will keep you warm, but only the first is truly family friendly.
Hi DC,
You've obviously done a lot of work in the high efficiency eco-friendly area. Lots of links and good advise. Perhaps you're geographically closer to the OP which would give you a better perspective on prices than I have. Up here in NE (SW CT) the prices are so inflated that I was quick to suggest that the budget was too small to accomplish much. FWIW - last year we got quotes for a kithcen remodel in the $70K range... (disgusting!)
So,
The experience I had, was with my first house. It was built in the 1910's. The previous owner had applied some 1980's fix-it technology to the repairs and created a real mess. Sure the climates are diffenrent, but the water is the same. We had to do significant re-repairs, and employed techniques that were not what I'd use if I were building a new home today. What we did was adapt to the rest of the structure to avoid propagating the damaging effects of temperature & moisture. The house wasn't as tight as it could have been, but the decay was thoroughly checked.
If you're not really up on the techniques, I'd suggest finding a **Certified** Home Inspector, and hiring and *retaining* him for the duration of the project. Make sure you find one that's got good references yout the local building inspector and your local bank or credit union. Then have him come in and do a baseline inspection, and then schedule 2 followups. One for mid construction, and the 2nd for when the job is done. He'll know he's getting 3 jobs from you, and that makes you a *good customer*.
Even if you do the some the work yourself, you'll get added piece of mind knowing the work is *correct* for the home, not just 'to code'.
BTW: Location? My friend says I owe him a bottle if he's right, I'll charge him a seafood dinner if he's wrong. You're welcome to join us either way... time & location TBD.
ctyankee,
Not really a discrepancy
. The house was once white, at least in the original picture we have taken circa 1900. It was probably white-wash. The next picture we have was taken around 1940 and there's no sign of any paint, bare wood. The picture was of my wife's grandmother and her father as a small child. Nor has it ever been painted during my father-in-laws life, he's 70. So, it's been at least 70 years since the house had paint on it.
Yes, I'm concerned with moisture too. That's why I'm looking for suggestions, I don't want to create create moisture areas. The rot is an issue but, termites love moisture and they are a more immediate danger. How do you insulate the walls and keep moisture out?
DC,
Thanks, I'll check into FSC lumber. What do you think about insulation and moisture in the walls?
Anyone,
What product will insulate but not draw dampness or create moist areas?
I am not an expert in this area, but I do know that if you seal your house so tightly that the air exchange rate is inadequate, moisture and air quality issues can arise (see http://www.epa.gov/iaq/homes/hip-ventilation.html). If you are planning on turning your home into a super high insulated house, you may want to ask a licensed HVAC contractor about options for ensuring that ventilation will be adequate. There is a device called an air-to-air exchanger (also sometimes called a heat recovery ventilator) that can be installed to increase the airflow in your home and remove indoor moisture and pollutants. It requires maintenance and has its advantages and disadvantages. Other ventilation options and moisture control techniques also exist (see, e.g., http://www.epa.gov/iaq/homes/hip-moisture.html). If you have concerns about this issue, I strongly suggest that you contact a professional for assistance.
Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified products are made from trees that are harvested in a sustainable way. The certification program promotes biological diversity, long-term forest health and long-term economic well-being of local communities. FSC wood is stamped with a chain-of-custody certification number that allows it to be traced back to the originating well-managed forest. FSC certified products include lumber, plywood, decking materials, flooring, etc.
You can call your local lumber yard or flooring supplier and ask what type of FSC certified materials they carry. FSC flooring is also available on the Internet.
See:
http://www.fscus.org/
http://www.certifiedforestproducts.com/index.htm
http://www.ecotimber.com/
You must be in a drier part of the state... I can't stress enough that moisture control is going to be crucial to protecting your home. The worst possible thing you could do is to create an accidental moisture barrier that allows the wood to begin to rot.
Please understand that I'm from up north, but I've been taught that insulating the roof is a bad idea. Air flow is essential to roof life. You certainly want to insulate between the attic and the living space.
So what's up with the 30 year discrepancy between the exterior walls and the roof? ;-)
Regarding insulation, you might want to check out soy based spray foam. It contains no formaldehyde and emits no CFCs and almost no VOCs. It fills wall cavities completely, sealing sealing cracks and crevices as well as insulating. It needs to be professionally applied. Blown in cellulose insulation is another green option that could be used in the attic.
See:
http://www.thegreenguide.com/doc/107/soyinsulation
http://www.biobased.net/
Regarding windows, you can get them with an R-7 value or higher if you buy double paned low-e windows that are argon or krypton filled. Of course, if you want to restore the house to its original state rather than merely remodel it, there's the question of whether you want to replace the windows at all. (A compromise between energy efficiency and restoration might be to replace all of the windows except those in the front.)
As far as flooring choices go, I would restore the original hardwood floors, if you have them and they are salvageable. Otherwise, I would replace them with bamboo floors or wood floors made from FSC wood.
If you are repainting, there are several brands of low- and no-VOC paints that you can choose from -- though if you are painting over existing oil based paint, you may need to prime with an oil based primer first (be sure to check the paint manufacturer's instructions).
Probably the most important thing to consider when fixing up an old home is safety. Lead paint is in almost all homes built before the late 1970's, so you should use appropriate safety gear if you will be scraping or sanding it. You may also have lead pipes or galvinized steel pipes with lead in them. If so, you can replace them or use a filtration system that removes the lead. There may also be asbestos in the home (e.g.- in blown in insulation in the attic, etc.), even if it wasn't there when the house was originally built. Be careful not to disturb it if you encounter any. Additionally, I would have an electrician check the wiring to make sure it's safe and have him rewire if necessary. You may also want to have the foundation checked to make sure there isn't a problem with cracks and leaks. Older basements often were not sealed on the outside. There are other potential environmental hazards, but these are some common ones.
See: http://realestate.msn.com/buying/Articlebankrate.aspx?cp-documentid=1856...
If you have the money and can find a contractor that specializes in green remodels, that might be worth exploring.
Good luck -- it sounds like a fun project.
All these ideas are great, thank ctyankee and DC.
The house is in SC, almost no one here has a basement, the house sets on brick piers. The foundation is sound. The house has not had a coat of paint on the outside in over 70 years, it natural wood color. It will probable take a thousand gallons of paint to get a good coat. I like the info on insulation, it included information on INSULADD insulating paint and foam might work in the walls. The floors are not hardwood, they are heart pine planks. The whole house is heart pine.
What is FSC wood? As for the windows, I plan on replacing them when I find a supplier that makes windows that match in appearance. The roof needs replacing and insulation installed there also. The original roof is of 2x4 construction with lathes and wood shingles. We see almost no snow here, the roof has lasted over 100 years. I don't want a metal roof!!
PS: I'll be doing most of the renovation myself, sub-contracting only the things I can't or won't do, like the roof.
Wood is nice, I bet it's yellow pine too!!!
Are you going to add AC? Because that's going to be the big determiner of the way you attack the problem. If you do it wrong, you'll cause those century old boards to rot in 2-3 years... that would be terrible. Remember, moisture is your enemy.
Stop watching "Flip This House" ahh, I said stop... No, not even to
laugh... and refocus on the long term. Home revolves aroung the
hearth, and a "user friendly" bathroom can make up for a lot of little inconveniences.
I've been pondering... Given your budget and the age & location of the home you should either wait, or, improve the kitchen & baths first. If winter is the more uncomfortable season then invest in sweaters, if summer is the unbearable time, then you wand a whole house fan, or, a dehumidifier, and some good permeable seals & caulking to eliminate big air leaks.
Just my $0.02
I'm in South Carolina.
The home is my wife's ancestral home, so we will have this till we die! Right now, it's just me and my wife in this 2858 sq ft home. We plan on renovating the house and converting the upstairs into an apartment. Budget...something less than $100,000. The main idea's that I'm looking for are new energy efficient products and equipment that can be installed during the renovation. One particular problem is insulation. The walls are not insulated at all, the exterior siding is ship-lap and the interior walls are tounge and groove horizontal boards. No plaster, no drywall, just wood. Everything is wood!!!
We need to start a support group. My husband and I are fixing up his families ancetral home in South Carolina. (Columbia) It was built in the mid 1800's and has had little done to it over the years. I'm from CA, where the "green" products are much easier to come by. How far along are you in your project?
I have also heard horror stories about making a breathable house too tight and creating problems with moisture, which seems like it could be a problem with the humid weather here. I have a quote to add a cellulose insulation to our walls (essenstially recycled newspaper with some boric acid for fire proofing). We are also having someone come out and give us a quote on the soy-based foam and weigh the pros and cons of such a tight seal. (I know of contractors for this in columbia and charleston).
As for the floors, if FSC certified wood is out of your price range (it is for us and our sq footage is 1700), you could try a salvage place and reuse flooring from another old home that is destined to be torn down. (I did find one that was extremely well priced in Anderson county.)
What else are you looking for? Ours is a complete renovation so I've been researching all aspects.
I would love to find out what you have learned also! You can email me at amdjones@gmail.com
Where are you located (climate wise)?
Not having central heat means the house *is* between somewhat - to - very efficient already. It just may not be comfortable...
Naturally, insulating the occupied rooms will give you the most return fot the $$$ spent.
So many questions... Budget? Estimated time to keep the home? Family size... on and on...???
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My home, just given to us, was built in 1890's. It's nearly as built: wood frame, wood shake shingles, single pane windows, no insulation, no air conditioning and small gas heaters (most modern update). I'm renovating the home and will be bringing it up to code and installing up to date energy efficient components. I'm looking for suggestions prior to purchasing.